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Joy can bring people together, but it's grief that binds them. For around ten days in March, Shia Muslims from all over the city seek each other out in houses of mourning - ashurkhanas - to share the memory of loss. And this loss is marked by the period of Moharram, a tribute to a martyr, Hazrat Imam Hussain, the grandson of the Prophet. This is a time of intense grieving, but because there is beauty even in pain, these haunts of sadness have been built with enormous love and care.
The city's oldest such monument is the Badshahi Ashurkhana, and its most immaculately guarded one is the A....
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